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An Arab media summit in Dubai was loaded with symbolism -- and the same sort of drama that governs the way the news is covered. Tarek Atia reports from Dubai

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DISPATCH

Rocking the citadel

The summer's premier free festival continues to wow the crowds

Text and photos by Tarek Atia

(cairolive.com, August 19, 2002)

El-Fatih Hussein's set was just wrapping up when we arrived at the El-Saha Stage. The sun had already set, and twilight's magical glow filled the night. You couldn't help but be in awe of the structures in front of you. Medieval walls and a mosque with a silver dome whose minarets were raised triumphantly towards the sky. The ancient structure -- this citadel of Salahuddin that had stood proudly over the city for hundreds of years -- was vibrant with the sound of music tonight, as it has been for the past 10 nights. And the best part is that the annual Citadel Music Festival is in full swing until the 21st, so there are still a few more days of this stunning spectacle to see.

The concerts are free, and go on late into the night, on three different stages within the citadel complex. The first stage, El-Saha, has the mosque of Mohamed Ali as its backdrop. Three shows are performed there every night, beginning at 7.

The night we went, the troupe that played after El-Fatih Hussein went through a standard repertoire of mid-speed Abdel-Halim Hafez and Um Kulthoum tunes. Things like "Ya rayt ya rayt..." which had the crowd singing along with the moody night wind. 

The festival is a chance for younger singers and musicians to perform in front of the general public on a wide scale. And since the proceedings are televised, there's also the chance of being interviewed and making a splash.

It's quite a family venue as well. For most of the night, all the way until the Enshad Deeni troupe got on stage, the family of the troupe's drummer -- who were sitting behind us -- were loudly speculating as to whether their loved one would be performing tonight. Every once in a while, a family member would say, "Look, there he is, by that door, getting dressed!".  "No, no, no, that's not him," would come a reply. When the troupe finally got on stage and as they went through a rather extended sound check, it became clear that their relative was nowhere to be seen amongst the 20 or so men about to perform. "It's his bad luck," someone said. "He should have called the maestro on the mobile."

"The maestro has a mobile?"

"Well, one of his 20 colleagues has one, and he could have talked to him on that."

All of a sudden, just as the concert was about to begin, their relative is spotted off-stage, hurriedly putting on the troupe's green shirt and white robe uniform, and rushing onto the stage, tabla in hand.

As he took his seat relieved exclamations of "There he is, there he is!" were voiced by most of the occupants of the seats behind us. And knowing how proud they were of their drummer only made his -- and the rest of the troupe's -- performance more enjoyable for the rest of us.

 

FROM THE ARCHIVES:
Music for the stars

A mawwal in English caps off a fantastic night at the 2001 Citadel music festival

 

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